解释性翻译

四、解释性翻译

◆ 一日日中时分，王冕正从母亲坟上拜扫回来，只见十几骑马，竟投他村里来。为头一人，头戴武巾，身穿团花战袍，白净面皮，三绺髭须，真有龙凤之表!(吴敬梓《儒林外史》第一回)

One day at noon，just as Wang Mien was returning from his mother's grave，he saw a dozen horsemen entering the village．The leader of the band wore a military cap and flowered silk costume．He had a clear complexion，his beard was fine，and he looked every inch a king．(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

◆ 这个人打扮与众姑娘不同，彩绣辉煌，恍若神妃仙子：头上戴着金丝八宝攒珠髻，绾着朝阳五凤挂珠钗;项上戴着赤金盘螭璎珞圈;裙边系着豆绿宫绦，双衡比目玫瑰佩;身上穿着缕金百蝶穿花大红洋缎窄褃袄，外罩五彩刻丝石青银鼠褂;下着翡翠撒花洋绉裙。(曹雪芹《红楼梦》第三回)

Unlike the girls，she was richly dressed and resplendent as a fairy．

Her gold-filigree tiara was set with jewels and pearls．Her hair-clasps，in the form of five phoenixes facing the sun，had pendants of pearls．Her necklace，of red gold，was in the form of coiled dragon studded with gems．She had double red jade pendants with pea-green tassels attached to her skirt．

Her close-fitting satin jacket was embroidered with gold butterflies and flowers．Her turquoise cape，lined with white squirrel，was inset with designs in colored silk．Her skirt of kingfisher-blue crepe was patterned with flowers．(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

【注】“金丝八宝攒珠髻”：用金丝穿缀珍宝和镶嵌珠宝而制成的珠花髻饰。“八宝”：指金银饰物上镶嵌的各色珍珠、玛瑙、碧玉等。“攒”：簇聚。“珠”：指珠花，用珠宝穿缀成各种花形叫“珠花”。

“朝阳五凤挂珠钗”：一种作凤凰展翅朝阳形、口衔串珠的长钗。清代妇女首饰，于钿子上插挂珠子凤钗，皇族妇女用九支，称“九凤朝阳”;其他命妇用五支，称“五凤朝阳”。“挂珠”：钗上垂饰，以珠连串而成，多连缀于凤鸟的衔口上。

“盘螭璎珞圈”：指一种上有盘龙和璎珞饰物的项圈。“螭”：古代传说中蛟龙之类的动物。“璎珞”：用线缕连缀珠宝而成的装饰品。原为印度贵族之项饰，后随佛传入中国。“圈”：指项圈，是清代大家闺秀的主要饰物。

“缕金百蝶穿花大红洋缎窄褃袄”：指一种紧身袄。“缕金”：指以金线绣成的绣品。“金线”：亦称“锦线”，古称“金缕”，故曰“缕金”。“百蝶穿花”：指花蝶图案。“大红”：又称“猩红”或“猩猩红”。“云缎”：织作云形花纹的锦缎。亦说“库缎”，云锦的一种。云锦，为我国传统工艺美术丝织品。南京所产，始于南北朝，盛于明清。用提花组织，锦纹瑰丽有如云彩，故名。传统品种中有库缎、库锦和妆花三大类。衣服前后两幅合缝处叫“裉”，腰部叫“腰裉”，腋窝叫“抬裉”。窄裉可以显出身材纤细，是乾隆年间入时而又流行的一种样式。

“五彩刻丝石青银鼠褂”：“五彩”：指刻丝的饰纹。“刻丝”：在丝织品上用丝平织成花纹图案，与织锦和刺绣不同。宋庄绰《鸡肋篇》卷上：“定州织刻丝，不用大机，以熟色丝经于木杼上，随所欲作花草禽兽状。以小梭织纬时，先留其处，方以杂色线缀于经纬之上，合以成文，若不相连。承空视之，如雕镂之象，故名刻丝。”明曹昭《格古要论》卷八：“刻丝作，宋时旧织者，白地或青地子，织诗词山水或故事人物、花木鸟兽，其配色如傅彩，又谓之刻丝作，此物甚难得。”“银鼠”：亦名白鼠、石鼠。形略似鼬，毛短色白。亦说白貂。在这里指银鼠皮做的袄里。“褂”：《清稗类钞》“服饰类”：“外衣也。礼服之加于袍外者，谓之外褂。男女皆同此名称，惟制式不同耳。”

“翡翠撒花洋绉裙”：“翡翠”：本为鸟名。《说文》：“翠，青羽雀也。”这里指一种近似翡翠鸟羽色的蓝色。或称“翠蓝”。“撒花”：指用碎花朵组成的图案。因其分布如撒花状，故称。“洋绉”：即觳，为丝绸品种之一，轻而薄，略带自然皱纹。(张俊等，1987：61-63)

◆ 茶未吃了，只见一个穿红绫袄青缎掐牙背心的丫鬟走来笑说：“太太说，请林姑娘到那边坐罢。“(曹雪芹《红楼梦》第三回)

Before she had finished her tea in came a maid wearing a red silk coat and a blue satin sleeveless jacket with silk borders．With a smile this girl announced：“Her Ladyship asks Miss Lin to go in and take a seat over there．”(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

【注】“绫”：古代丝织物名。汉以后开始盛行。明张自烈《正字通·系部》：“织素为文者曰绮，光如镜面有花卉者曰绫”。“青”：指玄色，即深黑色。清李渔《闲情偶寄》卷七：“大家富室，衣色皆尚青是已。”又云：“女子之少者，尚银红桃红，稍长者尚月白，未几而银红桃红，皆变大红，月白变蓝;再变则大红变紫，蓝变石青。迨鼎革以后，则石青与紫皆罕见，无论少长男妇，皆衣青矣。”“掐牙”：在衣服的滚边内，再加嵌一条很细的锦缎滚条，作为装饰，叫“掐牙”。“背心”：《清稗类钞》“服饰类”：“半臂，汉时名绣袦，即今之坎肩也，又名背心。”(张俊等，1987：66)

◆ 头上戴着束发嵌宝紫金冠，齐眉勒着二龙抢珠抹额;穿一件二色金百蝶穿花大红箭袖，束着五彩丝攒花结长穗宫绦，外罩石青起花八团倭缎排穗褂;登着青缎粉底小朝靴。(曹雪芹《红楼梦》第三回)

He had on a golden coronet studded with jewels and a golden chaplet in the form of two dragons fighting for a pearl．His red archer's jacket，embroidered with golden butterflies and flowers，was tied with a colored tasseled palace sash．Over this he wore a turquoise fringed coat of Japanese satin with a raised pattern of flowers in eight bunches．His court boots were of black satin with white soles．(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

【注】“紫金冠”：又名“太子冠”，即把头发扎束在顶部的一种髻冠。明刘若愚《明官吏》水集“束发冠”：“其制如戏子所戴者，用金累丝造之，上嵌睛绿珠石。每一座，有值数百金，或千金条、二千金者。四爪蛟龙，在上蟠绕。下加额子一件，亦如戏子所戴。”“紫金”：即紫磨金，一种精美的金子。

“二龙抢珠”：指摸额上的装饰图案。“摸额”：本是束额的头巾，后帽箍一类的饰物，也叫“抹额”。

“二色金”：指花蝶是用深浅两色金线所绣成。“箭袖”：一种窄袖袍服，原为便于射箭。清代有箭衣外罩，以戎装为礼服。

“攒花结”：用五彩丝攒聚成花朵图案的结子。“攒心梅花”纹样的简称，是丝绦的一种装饰性的“结扣”。“长穗”指绦带两端下垂的穗紫，俗称“流苏”。“宫绦”：宫中流行的一种系在腰间的丝带。

“起花”：因在石青色之倭缎上加绣了八个彩团，故曰“起花”。“八团”：指褂子上所绣的八个彩团图案，本是清代妇女礼服的一种图饰。“倭”：日本之旧称，“倭缎”：又叫东洋缎，是当时极为珍贵的一种厚密的丝织物。《在园杂志》卷一：“今厚缯易通名曰缎，有五丝、八丝、内造、汉府、官素、平花、帽缎、倭缎各种，花纹颜色，随时变幻，亦穷工极巧矣。”“排穗”：指褂子下面排缀的彩穗。一说，即“麦穗”，因音近变异而成“排穗”。指一种皮软毛长的贵重羊皮。《在园杂志》卷一：“羊皮贵羔而贱老，人皆知之，独口外则不然。有皮软而毛长着，俗名麦穗子，言其毛长如麦穗也。口外风高，非此不足以御之。虽公卿贵官，至彼貂裘之上，亦必服此一件，取其毛大压风也。内地亦有此种，不如口外者佳。”

“青缎”：黑色光缎。“粉底”：指靴底以白色涂料涂成。《清稗类钞》“服饰类”：“靴之材，春夏秋皆以缎为之，冬则以建绒，有三年之丧者则以布。”“朝靴”：方头靴的别称。《清稗类钞》“服饰类”：“凡靴之头皆尖，惟著以入朝者则方。或曰沿明制也。”《京师偶记》：“行必靴，一以避尘，一以壮观，非若江南之可以履也。”(张俊等，1987：68-69)

◆ 一时回来，再看，已换了冠带：头上周围一转的短发，都结成小辫，红丝结束，共攒至顶中胎发，总编一根大辫，黑亮如漆，从顶至梢，一串四颗大珠，用金八宝坠角;身上穿着银红撒花半旧大袄，仍旧带着项圈、宝玉、寄名锁、护身符等物;下面半露松花撒花绫裤腿、锦边弹墨袜、厚底大红鞋。(曹雪芹《红楼梦》第三回)

He returned before long，having changed his clothes．His short hair in small plaints tied with red silk was drawn up on the crown of his head and braided into one thick queue as black and glossy as lacquer，sporting four large pearls attached to golden pendants in the form of the eight precious things．His coat of a flower patters on a bright red ground was not new，and he still wore the torque，the precious jade，a lock-shaped amulet containing his Buddhistic name，and a lucky charm．Below could be glimpsed light green flowered satin trousers，black-dotted stockings with brocade borders，and thick-soled scarlet shoes．(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

【注】“坠角”：系于器物下端的小装饰品，在本例中指的是辫梢所坠的饰物。“寄名锁”：一种习俗，怕小孩夭亡，在神或僧道前寄名为弟子，并用锁形饰物挂在颈间，表示借神之命锁住，以保长寿，称为“寄名锁”，或谓“长命锁”，由“百索”演变而来。汉时民族于五月五日，以五色朱索饰门户，云可以避恶气。后代于此日以五色线戴小儿颈上，或以系臂，以避不祥，谓之“百索”，亦名“长命缕”。“护身符”：一种符箓。旧时佛教、道教及巫师用朱笔或墨笔在纸上画上佛、菩萨、鬼神的像，或写上咒语，画上一种似字非字的图形，让人悬之于身，以为可受其保护，避邪消灾，叫“护身符”。

◆ 凤姐看袭人头上戴着几枝金钗珠钏，倒华丽;又看身上穿着桃红百子刻丝银鼠袄子，葱绿盘金彩绣绵裙，外面穿着青缎灰鼠褂。(曹雪芹《红楼梦》第五十一回)

Xifeng saw that she had some gold pins ornamented with pearls in her hair，and was wearing an ermine-lined peach-red silk tapestry jacket with a hundred-beads design，a yellowish-green padded skirt embroidered with colored silk and gold thread，and a black satin coat lined with squirrel．(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

◆ 宝玉只穿着大红棉纱小袄子，下面绿绫弹墨拾裤，散着裤脚，倚着一个各色玫瑰芍药花瓣的玉色夹纱新枕头，和芳官两个先划拳。当时芳官满口嚷热，只穿着一件玉色青驼绒三色缎子斗的水田小夹袄，束着一条柳绿汗巾，底下拾水红撒花夹裤，也散着裤腿。头上齐额编着一圈小辫，总归至顶心，结一根鹅卵粗粗的总辫，拖在脑后。在右耳眼里只塞着米粒大小的一个小玉塞子，在左耳上单带着一个白果大小的硬红镶金大坠子，越显的面如满月犹白，眼如秋水还清。(曹雪芹《红楼梦》第六十三回)

Baoyu himself stripped down to a scarlet linen jacket and green dotted satin trousers，letting the ends of the trouser legs hang lose．Leaning on a jade-colored gauze cushion filled with all sorts of fresh rose and peony petals，he started playing the finger-guessing game with Fangguan．

Fangguan，who had also been complaining of the heat，had on only a short lined satin jacket—a patchwork of red，blue and jade-colored squares，a green sash，and pink trousers with a floral design left untied at her ankles．Her hair，woven in small plaits，was gathered on the crown of her head into a thick braid hanging down at the back．In her right ear she wore a jade stop no bigger than a grain of rice，in her left a ruby-ear-ring set in gold the size of gingko nut，making her face seem whiter than the full moon，her eyes clearer than water in autumn．(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

【注】“小袄儿”：即内衣，今称衬衫，与短袄不同。“玉色青驼绒三色缎子斗的水田小夹袄”：用玉色、红青、驼色三种颜色的缎子小块拼做的小夹袄。“水田”：即水田衣，因多用各色方形布块连缀而成，似水田界画，故名。“玉塞子”：即镶玉的耳环。“硬红镶金大坠子”：镶嵌有金饰的硬红耳坠。硬红：指珊瑚或红宝石之类。(张俊等，1987：1026)

◆ (方鸿渐)跟了上桥，这滑滑的桥面随足微沉复起，数不清的藤缝里露出深深在下墨绿色的水，他命令眼睛只注视孙小姐旗袍的后襟，不敢瞧旁处。(钱钟书《围城》)

As he followed her onto the bridge，the smooth surface gave way slightly under his feet，then bounced back again．The inky green color of the water far below showed through the countless cracks in the rattan．He fixed his eyes on the back of hem of Miss Sun's Chinese dress(ch'i-p'ao)and didn't dare glanceeither side．(珍妮·凯利、茅国权译)

◆ 宝玉道：“横竖我不出门，又不带冠子勒子，不过打几根散辫子就完了。”说着，又千妹妹万妹妹的央告。湘云只得扶他的头过来，一一梳篦。在家不戴冠，并不总角，只将四围短发编成小辫，往顶心发上归了总，编一根大辫，红绦结住。自发顶至辫梢，一路四颗珍珠，下面有金坠脚。(曹雪芹《红楼梦》第二十一回)

“I'm not going out today anyway，and I'm not going to wear a cap，”he(Baoyu)persisted．“Just plait it anyhow．”

He coaxed and wheedled her with endless terms of endearment until Xiangyun took hold of his head and combed his hair．Since he wore no cap at home，she simply plaited the short hair round his head and looped them together on top in one big queue tied with a crimson braid．This braid was decorated with four pearls and had a golden pendant at the end．(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

◆ 只见张道士捧了盘子，走到跟前笑道：“众人托小道的福，见了哥儿的玉，实在可罕。都没什么敬贺之物，这是他们各人传道的法器，都愿意为敬贺之礼。哥儿便不稀罕，只留着在房里玩耍赏人罢。”贾母听说，向盘内看时，只见也有金璜，也有玉块，或有事事如意，或有岁岁平安，皆是珠穿宝贯，玉琢金镂，共有三五十件。(曹雪芹《红楼梦》第二十九回)

As he spoke，Zhang appeared with the tray．“Everyone felt most obliged to me for the chance to see Master Bao's jade，which they think most wonderful，”he declared．“They've nothing else worth offering，so they've sent these Taoist amulets as tokens of their respect．If Master Bao thinks they're nothing special，he can keep them as toys or give them away，just as he pleases．”

The Lady Dowager saw in the tray several dozen amulets of gold and jade engraved with the inscriptions．“May All Your Wishes Come True”and“Eternal Peace”．Each was studded with pearls or jewels and finely carved．(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

◆ 宝玉便邀着黛玉同往稻香村。黛玉换上掐金挖云红香羊皮小靴，罩了一件大红羽纱面白狐狸里的鹤氅，束一条青金闪绿双环四合如意绦，头上罩了雪帽。二人一齐踏雪而来。

只见众姊妹都在那边，都是一色大红猩猩毡与羽毛缎斗篷，独李纨穿一件青哆罗呢对襟褂子，薛宝钗穿一件莲青斗纹锦上添花洋线番羓丝的鹤氅;邢岫烟仍是家常旧衣，并无遮雪之衣。一时史湘云来了，穿着贾母与他的一件貂鼠脑袋面子大毛黑灰鼠里子里外发烧大褂子，头上带着一顶挖云鹅黄片金里大红猩猩毡昭君套，又围着大貂鼠风领。黛玉先笑道：“你们瞧瞧，孙行者来了。他一般的也拿着雪褂子，故意装出个小骚达子来。”湘云笑道：“你们瞧我里头打扮的。”一面说，一面脱了褂子。只见他里头穿着一件半新的靠色三镶领袖秋香色盘金五色绣龙窄褃小袖衿银鼠短袄，里面短短的一件水红妆缎狐肷褶子，腰里紧紧束着一条蝴蝶结子长穗五色宫绦，脚下也穿着鹿皮小靴，越显的蜂腰猿背，鹤势螂形。(曹雪芹《红楼梦》第四十九回)

Baoyu urged her(Daiyu)to go with him to Paddy-Sweet Cottage．Having put on red boots lined with lambskin and with a gold-thread cloud-design appliqué，a crimson silk cape lined with white fox-fur，a green and gold plaited belt with double rings，and a snow-hat，she walked with him through the snow to Li Wan's apartments．There they found the other girls assembled，most of them in red caped of wool or satin．Li Wan，however，had on a gown of blue velvet buttoned down the middle，Baochai a pale purple woolen cape embroidered with flower designs，and Xiuyan her ordinary indoor clothes without any outer garments to keep off the snow．

Presently Xiangyun arrived wearing an ermine coat lined with grey squirrel given her by the Lady Dowager，a scarlet woolen hood with a goslingyellow appliqué of cloud designs and a golden lining，and a big sable collar．

“Look，here comes the Monkey King!”exclaimed Daiyu laughing．“She's got a cape too，yet she's dressed herself up like a saucy little Tartar．”

“You should see what I'm wearing underneath，”chuckled Xiangyun．

Taking off the coat she revealed a narrow-sleeved，none too new greenish yellow satin tunic lined with white squirrel，with fur-lined cuffs and collar，which was embroidered with dragons in gold thread and colored silks．Her pink satin breeches were lined with for fur．A long-tasselled colored butterfly belt was fastened tightly round her waist．Her boots were of green leather．With her slender build she looked thoroughly neat and dashing．(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

【注】“掐金挖云红香羊皮小靴”：掐金：缝里嵌上金线。挖云：挖空成云头形的花边，再垫上其他颜色的里子，构成装饰图案。红香羊皮：清代蒙古地方出产的一种细揉皮，是常列入贡品中的物品。小靴：小型的靴，是为雨具。鹤氅：原指用鸟羽制成的衣裘。在《红楼梦》里指御寒的外衣。青金：黑色。在《红楼梦》里指黑色丝线。闪绿：黑色丝线加绿色丝线织成丝带，见光闪烁，故曰“闪绿”。双环四合如意绦：指丝带上结扣的纹样。哆罗呢：一种阔幅呢料。对襟褂子：外褂的一种，用以避雪。“莲青斗纹锦上添花洋线番羓丝的鹤氅”：指用外国种的羊毛线织制而成的氅衣。莲青斗纹、锦上添花：皆指衣上纹饰。番：旧时对西方边境各族的称呼，又指来自外族或外国的事物。貂鼠：即貂，貂皮为珍贵皮料。灰鼠：绒鼠的一种。尾如松鼠，背灰腹白，产山中，成群穴居，皮毛名贵。背上毛较长，呈黑色，腹下毛呈烟色，因比一般灰鼠毛长，故名“大毛黑灰鼠”。里外发烧：表里都有毛、正反两面都可以穿的皮褂子，俗称“里外发烧”。挖云鹅黄片金里大红猩猩毡昭君套：指一种帽面为红色猩毡、有挖云纹饰、帽里为鹅黄片金的女式风帽。片金：在《红楼梦》中指的是一种丝织品。风领：一种防风的领子。《清稗类钞》“服饰类”：“加于项，覆于肩，形如菱。”又“盖礼服例无领，别于袍之上加以硬领(春秋以浅湖色缎，夏以纱，冬以绒或皮。有丧者则以黑布)。下结以布或绸缎，有钮绾之，意谓领而衣也。”靠色三镶领袖秋香色盘金五色绣龙窄褃小袖衿银鼠短袄：指一种衣袖领口有靠红色三道滚条的、以金线及彩丝绣成龙饰的、窄袖大襟、秋香色银鼠窄肷袄。靠色：指红色。镶：妇女衣服上的滚条，一道曰一镶;三镶，即三道。领袖：指衣领和袖口。秋香色：指短袄的本色。盘金五色绣龙：指以金线和彩丝绣成龙形花饰。小袖：窄袖。水红妆缎狐肷褶子：指一种水红色妆缎面的狐裘。狐肷：指狐胸腹部和腋下的皮毛，属大毛儿。褶子：本为传统戏装的便服，一般用绸子制成。在《红楼梦》中指一种大领的外衣，长仅及膝。蜂腰猿背，鹤势螂形：形容一种俏丽的武士样子。(张俊等，1987： 780-781)

◆ 我八岁时节，跟我父亲到西海沿子买洋货，谁知真真国的女孩子，才十五岁，那脸面就和那西洋画上的美人一样，也披着黄头发，打着联垂，满头带的都是珊瑚、猫儿眼、祖母绿这些石头;身上穿着金丝织的锁子甲洋锦袄袖;带着倭刀，也是镶金嵌宝的，实在画儿上的也没他好看。(曹雪芹《红楼梦》第五十二回)

When I was eight，my father took me to the coast of the western sea to buy foreign goods，and there we saw a girl from the land of ZhenZhen，who had just turned fifteen，with a face like those beauties in Western paintings．Her long golden hair was plaited，and in it she wore precious stones like coral，amber，cat's-eye and emerald．She had on golden chain-mail and a jacket of foreign brocade，and she carried a Japanese sword inlaid with gold and studded with gems—in fact，she was even lovelier than those beauties in the paintings．(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

【注】“真真国”：其说不一，或指真腊国(今柬埔寨);或指中亚以至阿拉伯诸伊斯兰教国;或指荷兰。“联垂”：在《红楼梦》中，指发辫，即两辫分垂左右的意思。“锁子甲”：或即“锁子锦”，指锦上的纹饰。

◆ 贾母见宝玉身上穿着荔色哆罗呢的天马箭袖，大红猩毡盘金彩绣石青妆缎沿边的排穗褂子。便命鸳鸯来：“把昨儿那一件乌云豹的氅衣给他罢。”鸳鸯答应了，走去果取了一件来。宝玉看时，金翠辉煌，碧彩闪烁，又不似宝琴所披之袅靥裘。(曹雪芹《红楼梦》第五十二回)

The Lady Dowager noticed that Baoyu was wearing，over his brown velvet archer's coat lined with fox fur，a scarlet felt jacket embroidered with gold thread．Its slate-blue satin border was fringed with tassels．“Bring him that peacock-feather cape taken out yesterday，”the old lady told Yuanyang．The maid promptly brought in a cape which shimmered gold，green and blue and was no less magnificent，in a different style，than Baoqin's cape of wild-duck down．(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

◆ 薛蝌只得起来，开了门看时，却是宝蟾，拢着头发，掩着怀，穿一件片锦边琵琶襟小紧身，上面系一条松花绿半新的汗巾，下面并未穿裙，正露着石榴红洒花夹裤，一双新绣红鞋，原来宝蟾尚未梳洗，恐怕见人，赶早来取家伙。(曹雪芹《红楼梦》第九十一回)

When there was no response，he had to get up and open the door．He found it was Baochan again，her hair disheveled，her clothes loose．She had on a tight-fitting bodice with a gold border and rows of long buttons and loops in front，over which she had tied a none too new dark green sash．Asshe was not wearing a skirt，he could see her pomegranate-red trousers with floral designs and her new embroidered red slippers．She had evidently not yet made her toilet but come early to fetch the hamper to avoid being seen．(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

【注】“琵琶襟小紧身”：右襟短缺的贴身背心。“紧身”：即背心。清曹庭栋《老老恒言》卷三：“胸前加短襟，袖少窄长，过肘三四寸，下边缝联，名曰紧身。随寒暖为加外之衣。夹与绵与皮必俱备，为常服之最适。”“琵琶襟”：清李斗《扬州画舫录》卷十：“清明前后，肩担卖食之辈，类皆俊秀少年，竞尚妆饰，每着藕蓝布衫，反纫钩边，缺其衽，谓之琵琶衿。”即衣之大襟边不到腋下，至胸前即止，后以排列较密的钮扣连接。这是清代便服前襟的一种样式。(张俊等，1987：1452)

◆ 凤姐走到床前回贾母。岫烟是妙玉的旧相识，先走出去接他。只见妙玉头戴妙常髻，身上穿一件月白素绸袄儿，外罩一件水田青缎镶边长背心，拴着秋香色的丝绦，腰下系一条淡墨画的白绫裙，手执麈尾念珠，跟着一个侍儿，飘飘拽拽的走来。(曹雪芹《红楼梦》第一百零九回)

Xifeng went to the old lady's bedside to tell her this，while Xiuyan—Miaoyu's old friend—went out to meet her．Miaoyu was wearing a nun's cap，a pale grey plain silk tunic under a long，sleeveless checked jacket with dark silk borders，a yellow silk sash and a white skirt with dark designs．Holding a whisk and her beads she swept gracefully in，attended by a maid．(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

【注】“妙常髻”：“妙常”：即陈妙常，宋代带发修行的女尼。(张俊等，1987：1677)

◆ 说了不多几句话，宝玉也来了，进门见了王夫人，不过规规矩矩说了几句，便命人除去抹额，脱了袍服，拉了靴子，便一头滚在王夫人怀里。王夫人便用手满身满脸摩挲抚弄他，宝玉也搬着王夫人的脖子说长道短的。(曹雪芹《红楼梦》第二十五回)

Having greeted his mother and made some polite conversation，he told the maids to help him off with his chaplet，gown and boots，then nestled up to his mother．As she stroked and caressed him he put his arms round her neck and chattered．(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

◆ 武书辞了出去，才走到利涉桥，遇见一个人，头戴方巾，身穿旧布直裰，腰系丝绦，脚下芒鞋，身上掮着行李，花白胡须，憔悴枯槁。(吴敬梓《儒林外史》第三十七回)

After leaving Tu，Wu Shu had gone no further than Lucky Crossing Bridge when he met a man in a square cap，old cotton gown，silk girdle and straw sandals．His luggage hung in two bundles from a shoulder pole．His hair was grey，and he was haggard and thin．(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

◆ 那时天色已明，看那人时，三十多岁光景，身穿短袄，脚下八搭麻鞋，面上微有髭须。(吴敬梓《儒林外史》第三十九回)

It was light enough now for him to see this fellow：a man in his thirties with a stubbly growth on his chin，who was wearing a short jacket and hempen shoes．(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

附一

清代命妇的官服分袍、褂、衬。袍用卷领，两袖上月白色的大挖坑。大挖坑即袖头，俗称马蹄袖。补服也和品级官员的图案相同，只是改方补为圆补。氅衣袖口，用花绦白色绣花卷袖。补衣则用舒袖。

青年女子和新妇的氅衣用大红色。中年妇女用耦合色。辈分高但已育子女的妇女，虽年轻，也要用深紫色。老妇、寡妇用深蓝色。红色、耦合色的氅衣，周身镶大花边。紫色、蓝色氅衣，只镶右襟一边。衬衣的颜色使用比较宽泛，各遂所好，一般使用浅色材料制作。未婚女子不穿袍褂，只穿氅、衬。氅、衬不上卷领，以围巾、手绢围在颈间代替领子。

女便衣也分皮、棉、单、夹、纱数种。颜色随意，用宽、窄花绦子沿边。穿着时外加背心。背心一律右大襟，周边用花绦滚镶。中年以后，冬天也可外罩马褂。(清代命妇的官服，摘自启功，2006，《启功给你讲红楼》)

附二

清朝皇帝以至官员的穿戴皆有严格的规定，统称为冠服，分朝服、吉服、常服、行服，每类又分冬夏两式。此外还有雨服。朝服包括朝冠、朝袍、端罩、朝带等。吉服包括吉服冠、蟒袍与补褂。朝服与吉服都可以作礼服。不过什么场合穿戴什么服饰，要根据制度习惯与即时的命令。譬如，嘉庆九年以前，元旦、万寿、太庙，南郊祈谷等典礼，出席的官员着装一律为朝服。此后改为蟒袍补褂的吉服。一般来说，朝服与吉服只是正式典礼与年节庆典的服装，平日里，无论皇帝与官员都穿戴常服。常服就是普通的袍子外加补褂。行服顾名思义是出行骑马的服装，譬如大家所熟悉的黄马褂即属于行服，又称行褂。

官帽分秋帽、凉帽。秋帽即暖帽，分呢檐、江獭、重鼠、染貂数种。三品以上以及翰林、詹事府、六科、御史等官员，方可戴本色貂檐帽。凉帽分白罗胎、万丝胎两种。在穿单、纱袍褂时，戴白罗胎帽;在穿亮纱、薄纱时，戴万丝胎帽。万丝胎由藤丝、竹丝编织而成。皇子帽顶与安项珠的官帽完全不同，顶为红绒结，即用红绒结成的算盘疙瘩，与帽缨连为一体。清朝官员穿戴最多的是补服，其次是蟒袍。

补服，按品级、职权分类在外褂的前后心绣制图案。超品的王公勋戚依级别各有定制，亲王、郡王、贝勒、贝子、奉恩公与不入八分镇国公，皆龙图圆补。亲王、郡王四团补。亲王两正两行龙，出自特恩可用四正龙;郡王四行龙，前后两肩各一。贝勒至不入八分镇国公皆两行龙团补;不入八分辅国公则行龙方补;民公、侯、伯则四爪正蟒方补;品级官员皆方补，文绘飞禽，武绘猛兽，监察官员绘獬豸。从不入分辅国公到最低级的九品官员，皆是方补，前后各一。文官补子图案依次为：一品文鹤，二品锦鸡，三品孔雀，四品文雁，五品白鹇，六品鹭丝，七品鸂鶒，八品鹌鹑，九品练雀。武官补子图案依次为：一品麒麟，二品狮子;三品豹;四品虎;五品熊;六品彪;七品也是彪，八品犀牛，九品海马。宗室镇国将军、辅国将军、奉国将军、奉恩将军，则视武职一至四品的补子图案。

蟒袍又称花衣，一至三品绣九蟒四爪，四至六品八蟒四爪，七至九品五蟒四爪，袍的下摆绣立水图案。每年冬至、元旦、万寿等盛大节日，七品以上官员必须穿蟒。譬如皇帝生日的万寿，则要庆祝七天，故又称之为“花衣期”。官员家逢有喜庆如结婚、做寿等，也可以穿戴。不过穿蟒并不意味着可以免褂，蟒袍外罩补褂，就是所谓的吉服，只有夏季暑热时期，才可以敞穿蟒袍。

官服的颜色分石青(蓝黑)、红青(黑中泛紫红)、元青(纯黑)，以石青为正色。

朝珠，文官五品、武官四品以上者才能佩带。翰林院、礼部、太常寺、光禄寺、鸿胪寺、国子监等衙门的五品以下官员，则不受此限制，无论什么品级，都可以佩挂。朝珠108颗，用四枚佛头平均隔开，每27颗放置一颗佛头。佩挂时，佛头前三后一，并附带记捻三褂，男左双右单，女左单右双。身后的佛头下坠方形背云，背云下系坠脚。朝珠质料以珊瑚最为贵重，非位至极品的官员不能佩带。

凶服指的是丧服，又称孝服、衰服，是在丧礼上为死者穿戴的孝服。根据与死者关系的远近，分为五等：斩衰、齐衰、大功、小功、缌麻。如《红楼梦》中贾敬炼丹身亡，贾珍贾蓉父子接到凶信，自外赶回，必然要立刻按礼换上丧服。贾珍作为孝子穿斩衰服，贾蓉作为孝孙穿齐衰服。

(朝服、吉服与凶服，摘自启功，2006，《启功给你讲红楼》)