社会习俗与酒

一、社会习俗与酒

(一)节日习俗

节日饮酒，最能体现群体之间分享、庆祝、纳吉等亲友情结和信仰习俗。清明节时，人们用酒祭奠亡灵，以酒表达扫墓者对先人的追思;端午节时，人们饮雄黄酒以驱瘟疫避邪;中秋节时，人们饮酒赏月，庆祝团圆等。春节除夕夜，年长者守岁相邀饮酒为乐。正月初一长幼依次拜贺，进屠苏酒。如：

◆ 一面说着，一面男一起，女一起，一起一起俱行过礼。左右两旁设下交椅，然后又按长幼挨次归坐受礼。两府男妇小厮丫鬟亦按差役上中下行礼毕，散压岁钱、荷包、金银锞，摆上合欢宴来。男东女西归坐，献屠苏酒、合欢汤、吉祥果、如意糕毕，贾母起身进内间更衣，众人方各散出。(曹雪芹《红楼梦》第五十三回)

But the men in one group and the women in another paid their respects together，after which they took seats on both sides in order of seniority to receive the salutations of their juniors．When all the men and maid-servants of both mansions had paid their respects according to their degree，there was a distribution of New-Year money，as well as pouches and gold and silver ingots．Then they took their seats for the family-reunion feast，the men on the east side，the women on the west，and New-Year wine，“happy-reunion soup”，“lucky fruit”and“wish-fulfillment cakes”were served，until the Lady Dowager rose and went into the inner room to change her clothes，whereupon the party broke up.(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

【注】社日是祭土地神的日子，古代社日分春社和秋社，分别在春分和秋分前后。春社日是农家的狂欢节，人们击鼓吹箫，畅饮春酒，尽醉而归。如：

◆ 新年正月，公孙回家拜祖父、母亲的年回来。正月十二日，娄府两公子请吃春酒。公孙到了，两公子接在书房里坐，问了蓬太守在家的安。(吴敬梓《儒林外史》第十一回)

After New Year，Chu Hsien-fu went home to pay his respects to his grandfather and mother．On the twelfth of the first month，after his return，the Lou brothers invited him to dine with them．When the young man arrived，they took him into the library and inquired after Prefect Chu's health．(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

(二)祭祀

酒，在春秋战国时期，就已经是祭祀必不可少的用品。在丧礼、祭祖时，民间历来有洒杯酒于坟前，以酒祭奠亡灵的习俗。如：

◆ (宝钗)说着扶了莺儿走到灵前，一面奠酒，那眼泪早扑簌簌流下来了，奠毕拜了几拜，狠狠的哭了他一场。(曹雪芹《红楼梦》第百十一回)

Then leading on Yinger's arm she went up to the coffin and poured a libation of wine，tears flowing down her cheeks．After that she bowed several times with clasped hands and wept bitterly．(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

(三)婚庆

按照中国民间的传统习俗，家庭成员在其人生的不同阶段，要分别举行诞生礼、成年礼、婚礼等，这些人生礼仪活动都伴有饮酒习俗。据《国语·越语上》载，越王勾践为灭吴而鼓励人们多生孩子，“生丈夫，二壶酒，一犬;生女，二壶酒，一豚”，由此可知春秋时就有饮酒庆贺生育的风俗。以后，凡举行包括诞生、满月、周岁等在内的诞生礼，都有以酒祝贺的习俗惯例。如：

◆ 只听宝蟾外面说道：“二爷今日高兴阿，那里喝了酒来了?”金桂听了，明知是叫他出来的意思，连忙掀起帘子出来。只见薛蝌和宝蟾说道：“今日是张大爷的好日子，所以被他们强不过吃了半钟，到这时候脸还发烧呢。”(曹雪芹《红楼梦》第一百回)

She(Jingui)heard Baochan outside saying，“You're in high spirits，Master Ke，today．Where have you been drinking?”

Taking her cue，Jingui lifted the portiere and stepped out．

“Today is Mr．Zhang's birthday，”Xue Ke was telling Baochan．“They forced me to drink half a goblet．Even now my face is still burning．．．”(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)

自古至今，人们在举行婚礼时，都要以酒庆贺。早在先秦就已经流行夫妻“共牢而食，合卺而酳”。所谓“合卺”，指的是举行婚礼时用作酒器的瓢，而“酳”则指的是食毕后用酒漱口，因此“合卺而酳”讲的是新婚夫妇合用一瓢以酒漱口。到了宋代，合卺的婚仪演变为夫妻共饮交杯酒。吴自牧《梦录》记载：“后用两盏以彩结连之，互饮一盏，谓之交杯酒。”婚礼上新婚夫妇共饮交杯酒，表示相亲相爱的习俗，一直延续至今。如：

◆ 明早，归家大姑娘坐轿子来。这里请了金次福的老婆和钱麻子的老婆两个搀亲。到晚，一乘轿子、四对灯笼火把娶进门来。进房撒帐，说四言八句，拜花烛，吃交杯盏，不必细说。(吴敬梓《儒林外史》第二十七回)

The next morning Kuei's wife arrived by sedan-chair，and Mrs．Pao asked Chin Tzu-fu's wife and Pock-marked Chien's wife to escort the bride to the house．Towards evening the bridal chair arrived，with four pairs of lanterns and torches．The bride and groom went to the marriage chamber，recited the usual phrases，bowed before the decorate candles，drank wine together，and all the rest of it．(杨宪益、戴乃迭译)